Scenic view of the dam surrounded by Western Ghats and the backwaters itself forms the core of tourism
Shivering in the cold, I wait for the drama to unfold .The silhouettes of the trees sway a bit, gently awakening the waters. I look down from the bridge and see the river stir, forming ripples. A thick fog hangs over it, but the outlines of the mountain ridges appear in the distance.
Shades of blue, pink and gold emerge out of the darkness. The birds arrive on the scene, singing an ode to the dawn. Elsewhere on the waters, life is slowly stirring in a few sandy islands. A voice gently interrupts my reverie as I am served my morning cup of tea.
I am in a dusty village called Lakkavalli, lured by the backwaters of the Bhadra. The pristine forests around it create a green cover, hiding many a wild creature. The mountains encircle us. We change our course and sail towards the banks of the river. Hypnotised by the river, I am lost gazing at its unfathomed depths when a fellow tourist cries out in excitement. He has just spotted a herd of elephants on the banks. As we move closer, we see the matriarch shielding her calves away, while a tusker approaches. Another lone elephant tugs at the bamboo on the opposite bank. We move on to see more gaurs and wild boars as well.
A lone peacock dances, waiting for the peahen. A Brahminy kite circles overhead, while a white breasted kingfisher looks on. A couple of cormorants pose for us, their wings outstretched. Meanwhile, the boatman regales us with stories of the river adding that the spectacle unfolds here every January. The entire backwaters is then flooded with thousands of River Terns who flock here to breed and nurture their young. The river becomes their home until the chicks are old enough to fly with their parents. They migrate to other shores once the monsoons begin, only to return again in January to find their rocky homes sometimes submerged in water.
The backwater of the dam has created many forested islands with hill ranges forming wonderful surroundings
A couple flies ahead of us and we follow them in our boat. And before we know it, thousands of winged creatures fill our eyes and camera lenses. The noise is absolutely deafening. The River Terns are at breakfast and they seem to resent our interruption. The entire backwaters echoes with the cries of the birds, as they voice their protest. We see some pratincoles along with spot billed ducks. But the island belongs to the River Terns.
The white birds with their yellow beaks and red feet fly past us, pushed by hunger and the strong winds. Some of them are bringing back food for their chicks and their nesting spouses. The chicks are waiting at the edge of the island, screaming their lungs out, with their mouths open wide as their parents hover around with the local fish or ‘bilchi’ in their mouths. Some of their nursing spouses, hiding in the grass crave for food too. The River Terns scoop down, landing carefully and dropping the ‘bilchis’ to their family, only to fly again to pick up more food.
As the boat inches closer, the birds yell in panic and fly to the other end of the island, while the chicks, who are still learning to fly trot around the surface. Some brave ones come to the water’s edge, burying their heads in water. The rest are, however, focused. Only food is on their mind. As we watch in silence, I see life unfolding in a remote corner of the world. The locals here believe that the river belongs to them and they wait for them to return every year.
We return to the shore and wander aimlessly, watching butterflies and spiders, until it is time for the afternoon safari. A monitor lizard darts inside the bushes, while a crested serpent eagle looks away. The jungle presents itself – a collage of greens, browns and yellows. A typical safari starts off as a smooth ride with a song in your heart, with plenty of excitement and hope. You spot the silhouette of an animal, a shadow darting through the leaves, a rustle in the woods. By the end of it, however, your excitement wanes. And then the spotted deers appear, followed by gaurs, fanning your hopes again.
The backwater of the dam has created many forested islands with hill ranges forming wonderful surroundings
However, for a birder like me, the thrill never fades. The Malabar parakeets pose for us only to be followed by a flock of Malabar pied hornbills, chipping the bark of a tree with their beaks, like a woodpecker. The babblers and the bulbuls are all around us, the laughing dove mocks at us from above a tree, while a peacock crosses our path. In the midst of all of this, we hardly miss the tiger or the leopard.
The sun mellows a bit, as the forests open into the backwaters. We interrupt a herd of spotted deer and spot another herd of elephants on the opposite bank. The waters catch the light of the setting sun, changing colours by the minute. An alarmed lapwing shrilly cries, “Did you do it” as I watch nature reenact a drama again by the river side.
The sky explodes into a cocktail of colours, only to be engulfed by the twilight clouds. As I watch the streaks of crimson set against the dark sky, it seems like the sun is refusing to give up its abode. It is a poignant moment, as the sun makes one grand protest with a momentary burst of colours, before giving up. I look up to see the last few golden moments slowly being snatched away by the night clouds. It is time for the crickets and the cicadas to make their presence felt. As the lights come down on the waters, the river becomes silent .The shroud of darkness covers the forest and unseen eyes stalk us. Elsewhere, the denizens of the jungles come alive, as the day has just dawned for them.
Bhadra wildlife sanctuary, a Project Tiger reserve, is ideal for spotting wild animals like tiger, herds of elephants and spotted deer
Getting there: By Road: Lakkavalli is approximately 300 km by road from Bengaluru via Tumkur.
By Air: The nearest airports are Bengaluru and Mangalore.
By Rail: Shimoga is the nearest railway station.
Where to stay: The River Tern lodge at Lakkavalli is the best option to stay to experience both the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary and the backwaters.
Best Season: January to June for River Terns, while summer is the best time for some wildlife and winters for birds.